Besides the high price no complaints here! This hardware is well machined and finished, pleasing to feel/touch. I appreciate the simple vacuum formed/sealed packaging, makes for easy recycling. Initially had some difficulty removing the bar end plugs but vice grips clamped to the table proved to be the best solution, marred the plastic bits tho. Got the bar end sliders with room for a lever guard anyways so figured it was ok, probably not going to ever need the standard plugs (just like to preserve quality when possible). When assembling totally scratched the riser but was minor on the surface and came off with light rubbing! Fit to the fork tubes is solid and at hand tightened was sung, bars won't slip from gravity. Tightened snug I could gently move from full lock to full lock without slipping the bar position. Marks on the clip on top surface also help with alignment!! FYI the instructions recommend using blue (medium strength) locktite on some of the hardware, I suggest you purchase before parts arrive for convenience (if don't already have some). Working at a relaxed pace think it took me about 4.5 - 6 hrs to finish (mostly) installation, had old bars removed before hand. I had to do minimal fabrication of new brackets to hold my display and a guard (from wire hanger) to contain break line and throttle/clutch cables to prevent binding and ensure full lock to full lock nothing got caught or collided. Holes need to be drilled to attach the button/switch controls/clusters and even with a punch to mark my hole I still managed to slip around a lot, thankfully the controls hide the mess but a drill press and proper clamping can go a long way if you desire perfection. (Perfection is the enemy of Action - from a Ted Talk) I rode around without a left grip for a couple of days and despite more vibration in the hand I was surprised to find my hand did not slip, gloves probably helped with grip. It was an acquired look but could fly if you don't reuse the old grips or purchase new grips. I got a bicycle grip for my left bar that has screw to tighten secure and that works really well, makes for easy grip removal if need and is comfortable pattern. Had to cut off the end tho to fit bar end slider but a fair trade-off for protection. I'm riding a 2006 DL 650, although not many woodcraft products "officially fit" (Rear sets pls??) for this bike these clipons seem to be doing fine. Have put on about 230+ miles (at the time of writing this) with these clipons and I feel confident in their performance. I did drop my bike the second day after installing, parked not well on a slope in the dark and walked away, tipped over almost instantly, rip. But the bar ends and some frame sliders (and dirt) protected the important parts and the handle bar didn't bend, I think it might have slipped a tiny bit like 1/8th" because it felt ever so slightly different after riding away but could not get the bars to slip again and double checked all the bolts and they seemed fine. To make the clipons fit I had to extend the fork tubes about 40mm out of the top triple clamp to make an attachment point, the extra height is need to not hit stock gas tank. To be noted the steering geometry has been effected due to rake/trail changing. The turn-in rate is quicker but not too quick to be bothersome when filtering/in traffic. I would say the bike is 3% sportier now. With the 3" risers the bar height is similar to stock but your body position is more leaned forward due to the fork tubes being in-front of where the stock bars mount. In theory, based on eyeballing the bar distance to tank collision I think at a minimum the 2" risers could work on the DL 650 (assuming fork tubes are raised the needed amount). There may be a collision with the stock headlights/cowlings and definitely one with the stock display hence the bracket fabrication. I initially bought the no rise/flat clipons on a whim and AFFLUENZA attack thinking I could make them work but I was wrong, sort of. The only way to make the bars not collide with the tank is if they are positioned perpendicular to the direction of the front wheel, or straight across, but that Is extremely uncomfortable and an impractical riding position for this bike, unless you want back and wrist pain (loose arms no Lion king syndrome). But that is my opinion I would measure for yourself. If you were to remove the stock headlight assembly and custom fabricate a new one that is positioned under the height of the top triple clamp I think you could have a rad setup and the flat/low riser bars may work with slightly less inconvenience? Full lock to full lock I have about 1.5" clearance from the closest part of the bar to the closest part of my gas tank, and a finger can get slightly pinched if your not holding high enough on the grips. From the levers to the headlight cowling I have about 2-3" of space, proper lever operation is my priority. The angle of the bar is probably in the m
43mm / Silver / Regular (12")